Borsch, Cabbage, and Fish
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Illustration by Joanna Grochocka
Good Food

Borsch, Cabbage, and Fish

Polish Christmas in Exile
Paulina Olszanka
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I grew up in Australia, which is the kind of place that exists to push back against nature. The sun bears down, the desert winds buffet you all year long, and there’s an obvious, deliberate ahistoricity to life, as if we were all born on the land just to live and die on it. It was a strange place for my Polish family to end up – everything in Poland had always been so grand and sentimental, full of emotion – so they had a particular need to keep to their own way of expression. At the heart of this was Polish Christmas Eve.

Our Polish Christmas was from the very beginning one big act of survival. Mum says that when she got off the plane in 1983, the country was on fire and there was ash in the air – she knew she’d probably need other people like her around in such an unfamiliar place. Our Christmas Eve, or Wigilia, was made up of a group of other Poles and their children, like me, who were born on Australian soil, but still had some lingering

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The Night of Inter-Species Love
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"Adoration of the Shepherds" by Domenico Ghirlandaio, 1483-1485 (public domain)
Good Food

The Night of Inter-Species Love

An Animal-Friendly Christmas Eve
Marta Dymek

Which one of us never once crawled under the Christmas tree and begged Fluffy or Growler to utter just a word – childishly hoping for a Christmas miracle to happen? Well, since ’tis the season of Christmas miracles, I too decided to speak to you a bit differently in order to sound more human, and therefore, quite ironically, closer to an animal.

The Christmas tradition in Poland is strongly connected to animals. We believe that on Christmas Eve, they can speak our language at the stroke of midnight. Before Christmas dinner, we break a special coloured wafer with them: red, yellow or brown. Back in the day, we used to share all 12 dishes with the household animals; since the menu was subject to the Advent custom of abstinence from meat, pets and livestock could have some without the risk of cannibalism. Now I would like to take a closer look at the traditional Polish Christmas menu. Let’s consider what our festive eating habits looked like in the past, what we eat now, and how the Polish Christmas dishes reflect our relationship with animals. I don’t necessarily think all former traditions are worth reviving, but looking back at those dusty old customs, I have discovered some values I consider of particular importance today.

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